Prepare the pressure canner and jars, keeping the jars warm. Place the canner on the stove with about 2 inches of water, following your canner manufacturer's instructions. Since this is a raw pack, heat the canner water only to about 140 degrees Fahrenheit, not to a simmer, before loading the jars.
Trim the hard fat off the beef and cut it into 2-inch chunks that fit through the jar opening. Slice the garlic and carrots, and dice the onions, potatoes, and celery.
Combine the beef, vegetables, garlic, salt, pepper, thyme, and bay leaves in a large bowl and mix well.
Pack the raw mixture into the jars, dividing it evenly and not packing it down too tightly. Add the red wine if using.
Pour boiling water or broth over the solids, leaving 1 inch headspace.
Remove air bubbles, recheck the headspace, wipe the rims, and apply the lids and bands fingertip tight.
Load the jars into the pressure canner, lock the lid, and vent steam for 10 minutes. Bring to pressure, at 10 lbs in a weighted gauge canner or 11 lbs in a dial gauge canner, adjusting for altitude.
Process pints for 75 minutes or quarts for 90 minutes, keeping the pressure steady the whole time.
Turn off the heat and let the canner depressurize naturally, never forcing it cool. Wait 5 minutes, then remove the lid.
Let the jars rest 10 minutes, then remove them and cool undisturbed for 24 hours. Check the seals, label, and store.